Our trip started off very early, taking the Rocklands Road to Uitenhage. Stopping over at Jubilee Park, the Uitenhage cemetery, time was spent looking for plot numbers and the graves of our ancestors. The cemetery staff is very aware of the historical value of these gravesites and were hard at work cutting off branches that threatened to fall onto the tombstones.

Then it was back to our vehicle and we headed off for Grahamstown. Taking the back road we passed Sunlands, stopping over at Kirkwood for refreshment. The townsfolk were preparing for the 'Naartjie Festival' and there was a hive of activity in the Main Street. Goats roaming in un-orderly fashion, until the sound of the shepherds whip and some unsavoury language brought the goats back to order. Farmers in their tractors hooting at stray dogs, but still having time to doff his hat to a lady. Farm life at it's best.

Taking the back road to Grahamstown is not such a good idea. It's un-tarred and the bumpy road doesn't make this a pleasant trip. One heaves a sigh of relief when back on tar, but to avoid speeding tickets, this is the best route to follow.

Grahamstown is always a lovely place to visit. National Monuments in abundance, but this was not a sightseeing visit. Rather chasing dead people as we screeched to a stop at the Grahamstown Cemetery. There are two cemeteries in Grahamstown - the new and the old, so wear flat shoes and comfortable clothes, as there is a lot of walking to be done. No monumental inscriptions have been recorded at the new graveyard, so a lot of wasted time was spent, looking for graves with no direction.

It was midday and we were starting to feel the fast pace that we had set for ourselves. It was time to continue on our journey and we headed off on the coastal road, because there is no thirst like Bathurst. If you ever want to feel the true spirit of settler life, then you simply have to visit this town and her attractions of interest. Pig 'n Whistle, the oldest licensed premises in South Africa opened in 1832; the Wesleyan Church, built 1832; St Johns Anglican Church, built 1834; Bleak House, built 1825; Bradshaws Mill, built 1821; Morley House; built 1835 and the Toposcope, built 1859, all of them being National Monuments.

While sipping a welcome chilled drink on the veranda, we met up with the folk of Bathurst. Of course once they learned that we were doing genealogy the stories just flowed. Cannot vouch for any of them, but they do make a good tale. The lingo is very colourful, English, Afrikaans and Xhosa all rolled into one and everybody is Swaer, Boet or Babe. The bar is filled with memorabilia. Empty shells of bombs, various defence unit badges, flags, denominations of money and lots of aviation photographs. A big black cat walks up and down the bar counter like a sergeant major, while marking her territory, and a dog lays in the corner watching the antics of the cat, but never daring to intrude.

Sadly it was time to say goodbye to our new-found friends and we headed off for Port Alfred. Graves are very well preserved here and the relatives of the deceased have an innovative way of displaying flowers in a glass jar. There are flowers everywhere and it gives one a feeling of comfort, knowing that even if these folk are no longer with us, they have certainly not been forgotten.

I'm not a journalist, but love to jot down my experiences as seen out of my eyes. Maybe you too have some stories to tell. It's not so difficult - just start at the beginning and allow your thoughts to flow. Something that you might think as irrelevant might just spark off a thread of interest and who knows where that will take us?

This story was written for a friend of mine, Rosemary DIXON-SMITH, who is looking for stories for her website.